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1)I recently got a new 12×16 shed and am planning on shifting all of my woodworking tools out of the multi purpose garage and creating more of a dedicated shop space. I may have more questions on that in the future but for now I’ll start with a simple one.
I have a few different battery tool platforms and I know it’s bad for the long term battery life to expose the batteries to lots of temperature and climate changes. As a result I have all of my batteries and chargers in our laundry room for now. I ( and my wife) would prefer to store these in the shop but I’d rather not sacrifice the batteries well being if I don’t have to.
I know yalls workshop space is climate controlled so you probably don’t have this issue. But I wanted yalls thoughts/opinions on the issue in general. Would making some kind of insulated storage cabinet be worth trying. Or is that just poppycock. Ha. For reference I live in NC so the winters occasionally get down to the teens and the summers often the 90s. Thanks for all you guys do. Respectfully, Jon
2) I have been practicing cutting dovetails by hand because I’m silly Using the Veritas dovetail saw I’m pretty sloppy But using a Veritas rip carcass saw I’m pretty on point Is it possible my big rock biter hands are better suited to a larger saw and that offers a better advantage to my end result, than the specific size and toothing of the dovetail saw?
These used to be such big strong hands. I know a girl who dated Atreyu from Never Ending Story. Apparently, very short. But I digress. Thank you for any insights before I drop some serious change on Bad Axe or Lie Nielsen saws.
These Veritas saws are all from the annual scratch and dent sale. Which is why I have a rip carcass saw oops.
I guess I should also say that my other thought was that the Veritas saws are too light and that’s why I’m having a problem with the really small dovetail saw it has no mass. Tom
3) Thanks for making ‘Woodshop Life Podcast’ part of my life! It’s a great mix of styles, knowledge and a little snark – from Guy’s aged wisdom. My question takes off from the last podcast, and the ending talk on an eco-friendly woodshop. I work primarily with reclaimed woods, being involved in that part of the industry since the late 1990’s, so was caught by the subjects lead in the podcast No. 103 marquee. I wasn’t disappointed or surprised that reclaimed woods did not make it onto any of the short lists – though Sean did trail off the session with “and like the wood – recycle it” – though I imagine that it referred to using shop scraps, but possibly other types of salvaged wood material.
So my questions is mostly an open ended one on any experience that you all may have in using reclaimed material – or why it can provoke different reactions among woodworkers, whether used for it’s original or rustic surfaces or resurfaced?. Huy, working in Alabama, must come across some antique pine, though I think he mentioned taking a pass on its uneven grain and amber tone. We’ve sent regular tractor trailer loads of this salvaged old growth material to Alabama – or maybe back to Alabama, as it covered large parts of the state until the mid-1800’s. My perspective on availability can be off, as there’s a lot of the old buildings here in New York City framed with the old softwoods. The longleaf pine is getting harder and more competitive to acquire, but there’s often the Northern softwoods – like less desirable spruce, hemlock and fir, but still old growth in quality. along with the signs that are witness to it’s history – nail holes, stress cracks, aged surfaces, etc. And even if it’s among the local woods available, the mix of species, sources and not least, embedded nails can cause woodworkers to barricade the shop doors.
Also – myself and my business partner Klaas Armster, put out a book a short while back ‘Reclaimed Wood: A Field Guide’. We’d be happy to send along a copy and/or some boards of salvaged wood (dry and de-nailed).
Thanks again for reclaiming the tradition of woodworking in America – the craft itself seems at the heart of an eco-friendly workshop, despite any type wood that is used. Alan
1) Hi Guys, I want to start by saying that you all Rock. I listen to a few woodworking pod casts and yours is the best at passing along knowledge.
Thank you for helping all of us out with your insights on wood working.
I am very new to this hobby and am in the process of building my wife a cabinet. It will be used for holding potato’s and onions and a few other things that clutter our kitchen up.
My question has to do with the glue up for the top of the cabinet. I am glueing 3pieces of 3/4 cherry together to make the top and I am concerned about it ending up flat. I am wondering if I should use dowels to help with this. I am thinking about buying a dowel jig from rockler and want to know if this is worth it or should I try a different technique.
I would like a good jig but do not want to break the bank because it will not be used too often.
Also, what type of finish would be good for cherry. I am thinking some stain and then a poly. Thanks again, Cory
2) Hey guys, Jared from Houston here. Really appreciate the podcast!
I’m making a wall-hanging cabinet intended to store a couple whiskey bottles and glasses. The cabinet will be solid cherry with one door and maybe a drawer on the bottom. I’m moderately experienced with wood but woefully beginner with finishes. I typically would finish with shellac only and wipe down with steel wool to a matte finish. However, due to the likelihood of contact with alcohol, I believe another approach might be wiser. My favorite idea right now is to put two coats of shellac then follow with a coat of spray can lacquer. What do you guys recommend? Also, to what grit do you sand before applying your first coat of finish? Last consideration on these questions…I’ll be donating this to auction at a local school fundraiser and do not want to get called for finish repairs down the road! Thanks for any advice you can offer! Jared
3) Hello guys (and guy), thank you for delivering an awesome podcast!
I know this topic is taboo, but I was wondering what y’all’s thoughts were on veneering one side of a panel when it is already in its frame.
I am planning on building a tool cabinet (loosely inspected by FWW Mike Pekovich tool cabinet) the door in question would be a traditional frame and panel door with a 1/2” plywood panel set into a 1/4” groove. The back of the door has a case style frame attached to the back to give the hinged door some depth to house tools.
The reason I am wanting to only veneer one side is due to lack of material, (the door frame will be made of mesquite, and the panel shop sawn veneer out of spalted hackberry) I know I could veneer the back with another material but I am also trying to save on weight/ thickness of the panel.
Hopefully y’all will have some advice / experience on this topic. I am planning on doing this project in about 6 months. Thanks in advance, Josh